“At least it’s not Prohibition!”. This is the phrase the Seghesio team utters to themselves in a difficult vintage. A quirky thing to say, but given their founding in the late 1800s, they are one of the very few remaining producers in Sonoma who can say this phrase from historical experience. In the 1930s, Prohibition decimated the once-thriving Californian wine industry. Vineyards were ripped up, and remaining sites were used for grape juice, sacramental wine, medicinal tonics or left neglected, to grow wild and be lost to time.
Against all odds, Seghesio’s estate vineyards survived this period of history. Their Alexander Valley ‘Home Ranch’ vineyard, planted in 1895, continues to thrive today, with many of the original 130-year-old Zinfandel plantings remaining. Their history is woven into Sonoma itself. As such, you’d be forgiven for thinking that the estate is stuck in the past. You would also be wrong. As our recent trip to Seghesio has proven, they have their sights fixed firmly on the future.
(L) 130 year old Zinfandel, (C) The Seghesio Family in the late 1800s, (R) 'Home Vineyard' today
After a breakfast pit stop at the Quail & Condor bakery in Healdsburg (well worth the trip), we began our visit with Winemaker Andy Robinson and Viticulture Director Ned Neumiller in the ‘Chen’ vineyard. Planted in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley in 1972, using a massal selection from the ‘Home Ranch’ vineyard, 'Chen' is used to create Seghesio’s ‘Cortina’ Zinfandel. Ned is the fifth generation of the family to tend these vines, being the great-great-grandson of founders Edoardo and Angela Seghesio. Now overseeing viticulture across the estate, he likes to describe his approach as “conventionally unconventional” and doesn’t subscribe to one specific dogma. Ultimately, what’s best for the vineyard will always take precedence, but regenerative farming now sits at the heart of his approach. He and Andy chose ‘Chen’ as our starting point that morning, because they, rightfully, believe it gives the best overview of how they currently work.
Getting to this point took time. There has been a lot of trial and error at Seghesio in the last decade as they delved deep into what was happening above and below the surface of their vineyards. Through experience and research, Ned deduced that regenerative farming tends to work best in the Midwest and Eastern parts of America, in areas less prone to heat spikes and summer drought. Yet the core of the principles appealed, so his main task was figuring out how to apply this to Sonoma.
(L) The 'Chen' vineyard pre and post crimping, (R) Ned Neumiller
Choosing the right cover crops was a key first step, as Ned discovered after reading Gabe Brown’s seminal book ‘Dirt to Soil’. Plants like daikon have worked well, helping break up the deep soil compaction and acting as a micro-nutrient sponge, slowly absorbing and releasing nutrients through the seasons. Crimping the cover crops, with grasses growing well over five feet, also helps fix the issue of cooling the soils during the summer.
We were in the ‘Chen’ vines while crimping took place, with a tractor running through each row, flattening the grasses to create a carpet over the soil. Undertaken in each vineyard, crimping typically lays down up to 2,000lbs of dry organic matter in the first passing, reducing vineyard temperatures and reflective heat from the soil while, eventually, breaking down to be absorbed into the vineyard. Additionally, the estate now makes all their own composts and compost teas, using all the stems, pomace and lees from the winemaking, alongside tree maintenance materials. The tea is easy to implement by hand, but time-consuming, so they now utilise their frost sprinkler system to project it into the vines. It was a big investment to start making their own teas, but one with overwhelmingly positive results.
By implementing these and other regenerative-inspired practices, Ned and his team have found that the vines are better at self-regulating. We commented on how luscious the canopy was at this stage of the vintage, and how it must require a lot of management to prevent vine vigour. As it turns out, we were pleasantly mistaken. From now until harvest, Ned explains that they will grow very little additional foliage, with their energy being naturally directed to the fruit development.
(L) The thriving vines at 'Chianti Station', (M) Cover crops in the 'Home Ranch' vineyard, (R) Ned in 'Home Ranch'
Seghesio has some of Sonoma’s oldest vines, and rejuvenating their vineyard practices has proven to be vital for safeguarding their future. At the next vineyard we visited in Alexander Valley, ‘Chianti Station’, planted in 1910, Ned explained how the Sangiovese vines (the oldest in North America) had struggled before they began working regeneratively. So much so that they had been unsure if the vineyard would survive. Standing amongst those vines now, we could see it teeming with life, with lush, vibrant foliage and excellent fruit set that, should the vintage continue favourably, would result in perfect fruit and good yields. It’s remarkable to see.
Our final stop, at the ‘Home Ranch’ vineyard, presented a similar view: centennial Zinfandel, growing on thick, gnarled vines, looking healthier than half the significantly young vines we saw driving along Sonoma’s roads. By changing how they farm, Seghesio has ensured the longevity of their heritage vines. Today, Ned is farming the same vines his great-great-grandfather planted, and their future has never been brighter.
The Wines
A blend of predominantly Zinfandel, with other varieties such as Petite Sirah and Alicante Bouschet, sourced from sites across Dry Creek Valley, Alexander Valley and Mendocino County. Current release.
This is a wine with excellent acidity, lifting the darker bramble fruit and notes of ripe plum and complementing the evident, yet soft tannins. Instantly delicious. Though it’ll do well in bottle for several more years, it’s a great wine to enjoy now, providing the signature Seghesio Zinfandel style (vibrant and elegant) in a moreish, approachable expression.
2022 ‘Old Vines’ Sonoma County Zinfandel
Seghesio is a producer intrinsically tied to its heritage, so it’s only appropriate that they have a cuvée specifically dedicated to spotlighting old vines across their estate vineyards. Hailing from Dry Creek Valley and the Alexander Valley, these vines are an average of 75 years old.
A step up in terms of intensity and flavour concentration versus the Sonoma County Zinfandel. 100% Zinfandel, lending itself to a wine with bold, brooding dark fruit notes and fragrant, sweeter spices. Again, there is excellent acidity here, which lifts the wine, creating a medium-bodied, elegant example of this signature Californian grape.
2022 ‘Home Ranch’ Alexander Valley Zinfandel
The original Zinfandel vineyard planted by founders Edoardo and Angela Seghesio in 1895, ‘Home Ranch’ is the source of one of Sonoma’s great historical Zinfandels.
This is a wine all about quiet power. The nose is subtle, yet complex, unfurling with layers of blackberry, back cherry, redcurrant and liquorice, which is mirrored on the palate. The tannins are evident, but fine-grained and complemented well by Seghesio’s signature, vibrant acidity. An elegant, complex wine that does justice to this wonderful site and has abundant ageing potential.
2021 ‘Cortina’ Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel
‘Cortina’ is the name given to the gravelly loam soils in Seghesio’s ‘Chen’ vineyard, which is the source for this expressive Zinfandel.
The nose here is inky, with evident notes of graphite, which seems to be quite characteristic of the Dry Creek Valley (at least this has been our impression while tasting other wines in the area). The bright, dark fruit profile spreads out across a broad, plush palate, with a touch of spice and great texture. As always, the vibrant acidity here helps masterfully. bring everything together.
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With special thanks to California Wines UK for their help in making this visit possible.