Kent’s ‘Whitewolfe’ Chardonnay vineyard, planted in 2020, is a good example of how vine age doesn’t necessarily dictate quality. Instead, it is a testament to its location in Kits Coty, that the newly released 2022 debut ‘Whitewolfe’ vintage, has been described by Matthew Jukes (Vineyard Magazine 2024) as "a sensational debut" and “one of the most exciting moments of 2024.” Vine age means very little if the vineyard site itself isn’t remarkable, and we can safely say that ‘Whitewolfe’ is, indeed, remarkable.
The Vineyard
Whitewolfe Estates was founded by Clare Whitehead and Luke Wolfe, two friends who met while studying oenology and viticulture at Plumpton College. They make remarkable still Chardonnay from their ten-hectare ‘Whitewolfe’ vineyard, which shows why Kit’s Coty, in Kent’s North Downs, is fast becoming one of England’s most sought-after wine regions.
Standing in the centre of this south-facing vineyard, at the base of the chalk-streaked Blue Bell Hill, you can physically see the weather roll in from the River Medway (less than 1-kilometre southeast), with rainstorms splitting across the vines. This natural phenomenon ensures the vines are protected from heavy rains, helping its Chardonnay grapes ripen perfectly even in the wettest years.
The North Downs additionally shelters the vineyard from cool, north-easterly winds, as well as providing a barrier to trap warm air from the southeast, which is the prevailing wind during the growing season. The soils here are similarly unique to the area, boasting free-draining chalk that retains heat well during unpredictable English summers.
The vineyard is planted with a patchwork of Chardonnay clones, each offering a slightly different interpretation of the site, represented by the ‘KC’ range.
The Clones
The ‘Whitewolfe’ vineyard is planted with seven Chardonnay clones across fourteen blocks. All of these can be considered as ‘dual purpose’, meaning they can be used for both still and sparkling winemaking. Over the centuries, clones have been propagated according to their different attributes, such as fertility, bunch weight, berry size, production level and sugar/acid ripeness, as well as their various taste and aroma profiles. Today, our understanding of each clone means we can carefully consider these attributes before planting a vineyard to ensure the potential of the land and its microclimate is realised. For example, the productivity of a clone influences its level of ripeness at harvest just as much as the climate of the vineyard.
Each block is individually managed according to the nuances of each clone. This means utilising different viticulture practices to maximise clonal characteristics and achieve the desired style. For example, clones 95 and 76, which originate from Burgundy (and are hence referred to as ‘Burgundy clones’), are often used for sparkling winemaking in the UK. However, with the right care and attention, these clones can be ripened to produce wines with fine, elegant aromas and a rich, balanced structure reminiscent of Saint-Aubin or Cru Chablis. Whereas clones such as 96 and 121 (also from Burgundy) will provide more ‘typical’ Chardonnay characters with a lively, uplifting freshness.
The cool climate growing conditions of the UK vary greatly from vintage to vintage, and as such, so does the performance of each clone. Clare and Luke's extensive winemaking and growing experience has allowed them to adapt their growing practices seasonally. As a result, they are consistently able to achieve the ripening potential of their clones and the best quality grapes at harvest. This provides a complex assembly of blending components, like a colour palette to paint with, that allows Whitewolfe Estates to produce world-class wine.
The Soils
The 'Whitewolfe' vineyard is made up of five variations of clay loam with a chalk subsoil that increases in depth as the slopes descend. Chalk, a type of limestone, is a porous sedimentary rock that has excellent drainage while retaining sufficient moisture for nourishment. Being alkaline, the soil pH is high, which increases the grape's natural acidity and typically leads to bright, age-worthy wines. As a result, it is very well suited to Chardonnay.
Flint is also a key component to the Whitewolfe soil profile, aiding ripening by absorbing daytime heat and re-radiating the warmth at night. However, flinty chalk soils are not the easiest to work with as they are often shallow, and the availability of key nutrients can be affected by the high ph. This makes vineyard floor management and, in particular, soil health a key principle in Whitewolfe Estate's sustainability ethos.
A robust organic fertiliser program was introduced at Whitewolfe from the very beginning and is now applied at key times of the year to keep an equilibrium nutrient status, providing the vines with the nutrition they require. This has enhanced the organic matter content and microbiology in the soil, enabling a significant reduction in synthetic fertilisers. It has also improved soil texture, creating a more friable soil well suited to mechanical weed control, resulting in no herbicides ever being used. Regular soil testing and field trialling research are fundamental to Whitewolfe Estate’s management and allow them to build on their viticulture knowledge and improve upon their sustainability principles.
Sustainability
Sustainable farming is at the heart of Whitewolfe, a founding member of Sustainable Wines of Great Britain, which was accredited in 2020.
From the beginning, Clare and Luke vowed to create a sustainable vineyard with a long-lasting legacy of producing premium quality grapes using the most efficient and sustainable methods possible.
Understanding the importance of soil health, a lot of investment was made in organic fertilisers when establishing the ‘Whitewolfe’ vineyard to increase organic matter and organic carbon and improve the soil microbiology and nutrient status. These interventions have enabled 'Whitewolfe Estates to significantly reduce their use of synthetic fertilisers and create a healthier soil ecosystem. To date, Whitewolfe Estates has never used herbicide in its vineyard and continues to encourage biodiversity by planting wildflowers in its headlands and ley areas.
The challenging, cool climate growing conditions of the UK and the seasonal changes attributed to climate change have resulted in increased disease risk, alongside the migration of non-native pests. This provides UK vineyards with new and evolving challenges. Whitewolfe Estates takes a precision approach to crop protection, using minimal volumes of water and pesticides to target specific pests/diseases when the risk of infection is at its highest. This approach requires careful, meticulous monitoring that relies on technical weather data and years of management experience, resulting in reduced water and pesticide use.
The local community is another key principle in Whitewolfe’s sustainability policy, with all labour and contractors sourced from the Kent area. Their winemaking facility is also accredited by Sustainable Wines of Great Britain and uses sustainably focused innovations, such as creating energy from their own solar farm and recycling wastewater through their wetlands system.
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